The American fashion industry says it wants models to be healthy—not struggling with anorexia, bulimia, or unhealthy habits like chain-smoking. To support this goal, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) introduced a set of recommendations as part of a new health initiative.
The guidelines were released just weeks before New York Fashion Week, where designers present their fall collections. However, one notable omission is any reference to Body Mass Index (BMI). This contrasts with Madrid Fashion Week, which previously banned models with a BMI below 18, while the World Health Organization considers a BMI under 18.5 to be underweight.
In Europe, the issue has drawn more direct intervention. After the death of Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston, who reportedly weighed just 88 pounds, Italian officials worked with the fashion industry to set stricter rules. These included banning models under 16 and requiring medical proof that models are free from eating disorders.
The CFDA’s approach, however, focuses more on awareness than enforcement. The organization emphasized that eating disorders are complex conditions involving psychological and social factors—not just body weight—so BMI alone isn’t a reliable measure of health.
CFDA Executive Director Steven Kolb noted that many runway models are naturally thin, pointing out that some eat normally yet don’t gain weight. He acknowledged concerns about whether voluntary guidelines can truly change industry standards but described the initiative as a responsible step forward.
Designer Michael Vollbracht also believes the industry needs to promote healthier role models, though he admits change will take time. He pointed out that extremely small sample sizes influence celebrities and, in turn, the public—creating a cycle of unrealistic body expectations.
He contrasted today’s trends with the more curvaceous figures of past supermodels like Claudia Schiffer and Cindy Crawford. According to him, the “heroin chic” era dramatically shifted beauty standards, and reversing that trend won’t happen overnight.